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The waitress is shaking her head at me. It’s an unusual response to a request for the wine list at what is generally considered one of the best places to eat in Barcelona. Irritated, she taps my menu by the word “Vermouth”.

It’s a silly mistake, I’ll admit. Bodega 1900 is, after all, a vermutería, and in front of me is a list of 16 regional offerings. Here in Barcelona, this sweet, slightly bitter fortified wine they call “ver-moot” has become more than just a retro aperitif. Practically every street has a closet-sized bar specialising in the stuff.